Kenny Prather has a Manly Kickstand

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I’ve written quite a bit about the Click-Stand, the neat folding bike stand I use.

The more I use it, the more I like it, although I have to admit that I still pop down the double-legged ESGE kickstand for quick and dirty stops.

It’s light-weight, doesn’t take up much room and holds my bike securely.

I met the Click-Stand’s manly brother

When I rode with the Freakbike Militia last week, I didn’t notice the bike stand on Kenny Prather’s high rider until it was parked at the Northwood Village Street Party.

A bike with a tall center of gravity like this one would topple right over with a traditional kickstand. Besides, when you have a bike that’s as modified as this one, you’re not looking for traditional.

Receiver is built into tube

The heavy-duty stand has a rubber tip on one end and plugs into a receiver welded to the bike frame on the other end.

I didn’t notice if he locks his wheels to keep the bike from moving like you do with the Click-Stand.

Clips to frame when not in use

I built a Click-Stand holder out of a piece of light-weight PVC pipe and used Velcro to attach it to the front rack. Since then, Click-stand has come out with some nifty mounts.

Kenny attached clips to his frame to hold it when it’s not in use.

It’s made from an old IV stand

He said his was made from an old IV stand like you’d see in hospitals. That’s not exactly lightweight, but neither is his bike. Oh yeah, in case you were wondering, he said his bike isn’t hard to ride “once you get it going.”

Kenny Prather with kickstand

Park Tool PCS-10 Folding Repair Stand for Bikes

I’m getting older and not as flexible as I once was. That makes it more of a challenge to work on my bike and keep it as clean as I’d like.

park-pcs-10-holding-surly-long-haul-truckerOver the years, I’ve hung my bike from the ceiling from ropes; I rigged a work stand from an old Swagman hitch-mounted bike rack u-bolted to a surplus aluminum hurricane panel weighted down with concrete blocks; I’ve hung it from my Yakima bike rack on the back of my van.

None of these solutions were great.

It was time to buy a real stand, like the PCS-10

I polled several of the usual suspects and then settled on the Park Tool PCS-10 Home Mechanic Repair Stand. I added the accessory work tray, but I’m not sure it was worth the money. I may change my mind when I spend more time with it.

More pictograph instructions

Park and Topeak are big on picture instruction sheets. I like words AND pictures, but that’s just me.

Parts list and installation instructions for the Park Tools PCS-10 Repair Stand

The gallery below shows all of the pieces / parts and how they fit together.

The PCS-10 feels solid

I didn’t have enough seat tube showing to clamp on it, so I clamped to the top tube.  Even though my Surly Long Haul Trucker is a heavy bike, it didn’t move around and it wasn’t hard to find the point of balance.

I haven’t tried to fold it up yet and I’ve been too busy to play with the stand except for the one time, but my initial impression is that it was a good buy. I’ll post a longer review when I’ve used it more.

26-inch Wheels vs 700C Wheels, Big Deal or Not?

There’s been a discussion on the Google Surly Long Haul Trucker’s Group about whether you could put a 26-inch wheel on an LHT designed for a 700C frame.

The LHT is sold with 26-inch wheels on frames from 42 to 54 CM and 700C wheels on frames larger than that.

700-vs-26-inchIs the bigger wheel faster?

When I went from my 26-inch-equipped Trek Navigator 300 comfort bike to a Trek 1220 road bike with 700Cs, I picked up about two miles per hour. I attributed it to the larger wheel size. I don’t know if that’s what it was, but it was as good a theory as any.

My 52CM LHT comes with 26-inch wheels

I was a little concerned about having to go back to 26-inch wheels on my new LHT, but enough folks assured me that it wouldn’t be much different. They also said it’s a lot easier to find 26-inch tires around the world than 700Cs.

I have to admit that I can’t tell much difference. Once the LHT gets up to cruising speed, it seems to take little effort to keep it going. Of course, most of my riding is on flat ground.

The 700 IS quite a bit larger

I’m of the generation that is metrically challenged, so I didn’t have a real grasp of the sizes. (I’m like the kid who will take a nickle instead of a dime because it’s bigger.) While I was cleaning out my shed, though, I happened to grab the rim that came off my old Trek when I had my SON built into a new wheel for my LHT. At the same time, I also grabbed the original wheel off my LHT.

The 26-inch wheel fit inside the 700 with room to spare

700-vs-26-inch-closeupWow! That puppy IS bigger.

I’ll leave it up to folks who understand physics and rolling round things to explain to me exactly what performance differences to expect (feel free to chime in).

Topeak Road Morph Pump with Gauge for Dummies

I’ve been pretty lucky when it comes to flats (knock wood). I’ve had very few on the side of the road, and none when it was raining.

Sunset on the Lake Okeechobee Scenic Trail

There WAS one memorable night when I was taking a newbie on a Full Moon Ride on the Lake Okeechobee Scenic Trail (LOST). Wendy and I had started in South Bay, had dinner in Clewiston and timed it perfectly to be on the second stage of the dike right at sunset.

When I made a sharp right turn and accelerated to climb the steep incline to top the dike, I noticed the sunset was spectacular and that my bike was handling squirrelly like it had a flat tire.

It DID have a flat tire

Two things happen at dusk on the LOST: the sun goes down (although I’ve never seen the fabled green flash just as it drops below the horizon) and the mosquitoes come out. I HAVE seen them. And they are legendary, not legends.

Because I don’t get many flats (knock wood), I don’t get much practice fixing flats, so I’m not very fast at it. I am less fast when I’m holding a flashlight in my mouth, wrestling a tire back on the rim and swatting monster mosquitoes with both hands and my elbows.

I put on every piece of clothing I had with me: arm warmers, leg warmers, jacket… it didn’t matter. They were biting me right through my shorts.

I can’t remember if that was Wendy’s last ride or not.

So, what DO I carry for flats?

Being a good former Boy Scout, I carry one or two spare tubes, depending on where I’m riding; a patch kit; a Crank Brothers Speed Lever Tire Lever; a CO2 inflator and several cartridges and a pump.

I’ve read a lot about the Topeak Road Morph G Bike Pump with Gauge, so I ordered one for my Surly Long Haul Trucker to replace one that was “OK,: but took a lot of pumping.

59 of 70 Amazon reviews were 4 or 5 of 5

A quick search of the touring group archives and other reviews made it clear that the Topeak Road Morph G with gauge was a good choice. It is a long-barreled pump that throws a good volume of air into the tire with each stroke, it has a (flimsy-feeling) foot rest and it connects to the tire with a hose, so there is less danger of damaging the tire valve.

One person who rated it a 4 on a scale of 5 knocked it down for no manual for newbies.

Well, I’m not exactly a newbie. I’ve been to town and seen the elephant, but I made some kinda embarrassing stumbles to figuring everything out.

How does the pump mount on the bike?

The mounting bracket is designed to take the place of a water bottle cage or attach to the bike with a pair of plastic zip ties. A couple of small rubber “bumpers” fit behind the mount to protect your bike’s finish. I was going to give them a shot of Goop to hold them in because they kept falling out, but I couldn’t find my tube. If you’re going to swap the pump between bikes, I’d be afraid those bumpers would be history in no time.

I’m a big fan of Velcro cable ties, so I used two six-inch ties instead of the plastic zip strips to attach the pump to my seat tube. They’re easier to put on, don’t require cutting and are less likely to mar my paint over time (I hope).

Here’s what the Road Morph looks like on the bike

One of the things I like about the Surly Long Haul Trucker is the way it’s set up with lots of room to mount things like fenders, large tires and three water bottle cages.

The pump fits nicely out of the way and the fender will keep it from getting a coating of road gunk. (Or poodle poop soup if you’re riding in Palm Beach on a rainy day.)

So, what were the stumbling blocks?

When Mrs. Kelpe taught me in the First Grade that C-A-T spelled “cat,” I decided that I didn’t need a picture of a cat any more. Despite the fact that I made my living taking pictures, I still prefer written instructions. Unfortunately, with Topeak, you’re stuck with pictures.

Take, for example, setting up for valve types

There’s a nifty picture of how to change the pump head from Schrader valves (like you’d find on your car tires) to high-pressure Presta valves like you’d find on a road bike.

Well, I’m one of those guys who finds it easy to take things apart and not-so-easy to put them back together. Realizing that limitation, I usually like to READ the instructions first.

I cautiously unscrewed the first piece, then even more cautiously pulled out a greasy black rubber dohickey, looked it over and put it all back together. I wanted to configure it for Schrader valves for a reason I’ll go into later.

It didn’t work.

The head wouldn’t go over the Schrader valve stem. It must ship with Presta as the default. I cautiously took it apart again and reversed the greasy black thing. It would slip over the valve now, but it wouldn’t depress the valve stem in order to let air go into the tire.

I took it apart one more time looking for the third piece in the picture. No joy.

Finally, working on the Bigger Hammer Theory of the Universe, I gave the head a rap on the table and the small point piece popped out. I reversed it and life got better.

Presta to Schrader adapter

Wayne at my LBS Bicycle won’t pump up a Presta valve directly. He always uses a Presta to Schrader adapter because he says it is less likely to damage the tire valve. I’m not as cautious, but I always have an adapter on one of my tires and a spare in my tool bag.

My old pump attached directly to the valve and put a lot of sideways pressure on it while I was pumping, so I used the adapter on it.

I could see where it would be easy to drop those small pump head parts on the side of the road, so I opted to leave the pump set up for Schrader valves. If I run across someone with Prestas, I’ll slap my adapter on their tire. (By the way, the adapter in the picture is installed upside down. I leave it that way because it’s easier to take off. I normally use a floor pump in Presta configuration when I’m at home.)

An embarrassing confession

After hooking up the hose to my newly converted Schrader configuration Road Morph and confirming that it really pumps the tire up quickly with less strain on the valve, I went to put it back on the mount.

What the bleep?

Why won’t the hose fit neatly onto the side of the pump like it did before? It’s too long.

After looking at pictures (including ones that I had taken minutes before) I figured it out. The hose pulls out of the pump head to make it longer when you’re pumping. When you’re done, you slide it back up into the head.

I can’t be the only person left scratching his head over this.

Too bad the guy who designed the packaging material didn’t have Mrs. Kelpe for a First Grade Teacher. She’d have taught him how to explain things.

RACKandROLL Multi-Sport Trailer (Now By Yakima)

From the files of ‘stuff I never needed nor wanted until I saw it’, allow me to present the RACKandROLL multi-sport trailer:

Basically, the RACKandROLL Trailer is a platform for a set of bars like you would usually find on top of an SUV or station wagon.

Trailers Versus Rooftop Carriers and Other Benefits

The brilliance of the trailer is that you don’t have to lift stuff onto the top of your car. Since the trailer sits in the car’s slipstream, you’re not increasing your car’s wind profile by stacking items on top. The trailer is also light and portable which means if you can’t drive your canoe to the water, you can drag the trailer to the water. (The web site says the trailer checks in at 150 pounds but I perceived it to be less weight.)

Anything designed to work on a standard roof rack will probably work on the RACKandROLL trailer so there is plenty of third-party support. (Yakima acquired RACKandROLL last month and the RACKandROLL web site still says prominently that THULE hardware works well with the trailer.)

The trailer seemed well-constructed. The frame is aluminum to keep the weight down. It had a lot of gee-whiz features (telescoping tongue, tool-free wheel removal, tiny wheels on the back frame so you can store and move it upright in your garage) that really showed that someone had thought long and hard about how it would be used. Of course, with a list price of $2,150, it had better be totally awesome.

(In comparison, my 4’x6′ flatbed steel utility trailer cost $400 and it’ll carry far more than the 350 pounds the RACKandROLL is rated. It also weighs four times as much and doesn’t fold flat.)

Yakima Trailer Out of My Price Range

At more than $2,000, the trailer is out of my price range. For folks who have three times that amount of money in each of their bikes, this may be a viable product. I imagine a bike will take less of a beating behind the car in its draft than on top. I guess there is a greater chance of a rock being tossed at a bike on the trailer than on the roof but I’m not sure if that is a serious concern.

If you have a canoe or kayak in addition to a bike, this starts looking a lot better. It is in the same ballpark price-wise as many canoe trailers.

If you own a RACKandROLL trailer or are considering purchasing one, please let us know. I’d be curious to know what you think. The trailer certainly caused a lot of discussion at this morning’s breakfast stop.

—Matt